The Art of Bargaining

One of my favorite parts of the trip was bargaining with the locals. I liked it because it was challenging, it is fun and it helped me improve my spanish. I loved working the locals down until we both agreed on a reasonable price. I bargained for most things I bought and ended up getting 20-40 percent off. It is also a way to learn about a new way of life and a new form of economy. I have enjoyed learning how to get better at bargaining by traveling to many different places and trying my best to bargain for the lowest price.

-Kelly

Andean cross and the churches

There are many religious symbols in Peru one very important one is the andean cross which is seen in many places in Peru including Machu Picchu. The andean cross is also sold in markets and on the streets by the women who make handicrafts. The andean cross is sometimes made of stone, or silver. The nativity scene or nacimiento is also seen and sold a lot in Peru along with bracelets of important saints or religious people.

We have seen many beautiful iglesias in Peru that had gold inside and beautifully painted murals. Some of the murals depicted heaven while others depicted a version of hell for nonbelievers. One church we visited was in Arequipa. I loved the intricate details in the churches and the different representations of the important people in the Catholic religion. I also liked the huge crosses that were next to the churches. I am not a very religious person but the churches that were visited were so breathtaking that it brought out the spirituality in me. I love to see different religious rituals and infastructures and it is especially interesting this semester because I am in a religion class.

-Kelly

Animals and animals and more animals

llamas, alpacas, sheep, dogs, cats, pigs, guinea pigs, frogs, spiders, cows and more. This trip has been filled with many animals. It was my first time ever seeing llamas and alpacas. I am honestly not really an animal person but it is cool to see animals that are not in the United States. My favorite part was feeding the animals the plant because they liked it so much and I have never really gotten to feed an animal before. There are a wide variety of animals in Peru that I learned about and want to learn more about when I get back to the States.

We also saw textiles being made and I bought two pashimas made from super baby alpaca and baby alpaca. It was fascinating to see how the women weave.

-Kelly

MY FAVORITE PART OF THE TRIP

Machu Picchu was awesome but how many people can say they dressed up in authentic Uru Reed Island clothing and danced with the people of the Reed Islands. I Loved going on the Reed boat from one island to another island, it was cold but well worth it. I can´t believe that people are able to eat the reeds and actually do eat the reeds. I had so much fun meeting a Uru Reed Island woman and wearing a skirt, coat and colorful hat that of course was too big while dancing to the flutes and drum. I loved living a different culture that is why I like to go on these trips. I also enjoyed the breathtaking views from Tanquilla Island which was an hour by boat away from the Uru Reed Islands. I thought it was crazy how the Uru islanders speak Aymara while the Tanquilla islanders speak Quecha and they are only an hour apart by boat. We learned that the Uru islands last 15 to 25 years and can be built in year. The Uru islanders beds made out of reeds looked surprsingly comfortable. But I had to go pee in a bucket in a little reed hut. It was sure an experience. I will never forget the Uru Reed islands and the people that inhabit them. It was also interesting that on Taquille Island both the men and the women weave unlike the other places in Peru where mostly women do the weaving.

-Kelly

Machu Picchu One of the wonders of the world

It was a pain to get to Machu Picchu but it was well worth it. We had to fly to Cuzco then take a bus and train to Aguas Calientes. Then we woke up early and took a bus to Machu Picchu the next morning. There was a fabulous view from our hotel of the mountains and the river. It was awesome seeing the Royal Palaces of the Incas which has been compared to the United States President´s Camp David. Machu Picchu was beautiful to see and scary at the same time because I am terrified of heights. I enjoyed seeing the site discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911. I wish we had more time to climb the mountains but what we saw of it was amazing. It loved to see the sites that were used for sacrfices or religious rituals because it is nice to learn about the different cultures.

-Kelly

Glimpses of Titicaca and its people...

Well, today I am really tired. I have a headache and I am rambling in my finest form yet. I have faithfully drank many a cup of mate de coca, and chewed its medicinal leaves, and well, the altitude has really not affected me in the last 4 days. However the accumulated tiredness of having to blog late at night and awake early on chilly mornings has had its toll.

Today was spectacular. I am aware that I have used so many grand adjectives in my blogs that they sound monotonous, but really, most every day has been spectacular. We hopped on a small ferry boat and ended upon the Uros islands, that placidly floated on the roots of the marvelous totora reed. How mind-boggling to think that these people really do live on floating plots of reed.

We had a unique chance to dress in the traditional attire of these warm and friendly reed island dwellers. Marital status is defined by the coquetry of women and color of the pom-poms that they tie to their two long braids of hair. Older and wiser married women wear black rimmed hats, and display a duller and less vivacious clothing. I was in shock when i realized that however rudimentary the dwellings of these amicable Aymara speaking people were, by each one of them there was a solar panel!

Our bus-boat later took us to the island of Taquile. We ascended an impressive amount of stone steps, to the top of the island; and please consider that for us this was indeed an impressive feat, for the top of the island caressed the 4,000 meter mark. Here after coming back to our selves, and our relatively normal breathing pattern, we beheld the panorama of the highest lake in the world unfolding below us. The hues of blue merged with the distant mountains, and the near transparent waters of the lake lazily licked the rocky shore of Taquile Island. The melancholic beauty of this place was interrupted by small sad-faced girls asking desperately to buy their bracelets. The people here as well wore socially significant clothing. The unmarried or widowed men wore long red chullos with a wide white band at the top. Married men wore the same hats but of a solid red colour. Infants wore brightly colored baby's hats. Outside of the nagging of the sad-faced girl the entire community seemed entirely oblivious to the tourists that we were. They chit-chatted and busied themselves with their everyday tasks.


As a conclusion to this trip I will give you a few last glimpses. As we sat on a top floor of a warm restaurant in Puno, the rain outside started to pelt the roofs with violence. Hail had begun to bounce from the sky onto the surroundings. The following day, exhausted and frozen to the bone, but fascinated with what I had seen earlier, I watched lazily the recent layer of snow on the hillsides around Puno, as the bus rolled by. What a conclusion to such a trip of dramatic scenery, charming people and mystifying cultural remains of the unforgettable people of the Tahuantinsuyo. I hope you have enjoyed our humble ramblings.


-Konrad

The magical monotony of bus rides...

The bus ride we experienced today was one of those bus rides. One of those bus rides when one is so over-saturated with scenery, the jerking of the bus shocks, the heat inside the cabin, and the slowly developed un-comfortableness of the seats. But as all days this day had some more memorable moments.

I have this thing for old, dimly lit, and splendid churches; whether humble or grand in size, I find great pleasure in visiting their interiors. The first church we stumbled upon was that at Andahuaylillas, know popularly as the ¨Sistine Chapel of the Andes¨. I found the outside facade painted with faded but fantastic frescoes depicting catholic saints, a real treat to the eyes. However when I entered the dimly lit interior, and my eyes became accustomed to the lighting, I saw beauty beyond description. The entire ceiling of the humbly built, mud brick and wood Jesuit church was dripping with bright colour. Such a humble structure with such imposing artistic beauty. The walls and naves of the church were painted with intricate frescoes of various Biblical scenes and the lives of the saints. The altar gleamed with its overwhelming quantities of silver and gold, flamboyantly carved in figures of saints, and ornamentation.

The next stop, away from the main touristic tracks at the church in Huaro, proved equally overwhelming. This church was as well exuberantly decorated beyond the capacity of the intake of my mortal human brain. I stood for a long time visually consuming the frescoes representing the Resurrection of the Dead, the Final Judgment and glimpses of Paradise and Gehenna. In conclusion these two majestically decorated churches were a true treat to the eyes of a random by passer from Rollins College.


We were destined to later stop at the town of Raqchi where there are the remains of temple of Virachocha, the Inca creator deity. I was shocked by the height of this impressive Inca temple. The remains of the stone and mud brick walls and pillars loomed above us. I vividly imagined the structure, filled with the bustle of people, and emanating the reverence due to a most sacred place. The reconstructed circular stone storage houses, with their conical roofs harmonized with the soft grassy landscape of the valley. It was a majestic and serene place to have one of the most sacred Inca places positioned.

As the landscapes flowed unceasingly, and we coasted inside the bubble that was our bus cabin, we intermittently dozed off into short spurts of sleep. Suddenly there was a perceptible change in air density. my lungs were heaving at extracting those oxygen molecules, and I could no longer nap. We were approaching our topmost elevation of around 4380 meters, and although we were rather acclimatized to the air of Qosqo, 800 meters lower, our systems churned out significantly less oxygen from the atmosphere here. Slowly we emerged from our cabin, and admired the crisp view of glacier laden mountains, in the thin air. One day I hope to climb higher.


-Konrad

The splendor of Machu Picchu...

Splendor, splendor, splendor...speechless I stood in front of the city of Machu Picchu. Every moment, every step, every sight, I spent in that amazing place I savored and delighted in. Although I am generally sickened by tourists and the sight of them, I really had no other option. I am a tourist in a country that is not mine, and I had to conform with this label. At Machu Picchu I splurged in what tourists do best, immortalize scenery in binary data stored on memory cards. However every moment I spent aside from my camera I devoured the sights and immortalized them in my very own carnal mind.

Ironically this is my shortest blog post, and the site of Macu Picchu is the most impressive. However, I felt like I could only pay homage to this globally iconic, televised and described site by not spilling even more ink on my part. I want this New Wonder of the World to speak for itself through my pictures, and by you going there and seeing its splendor with your own eyes.

-Konrad

Nearing the splendor of Machu Picchu...

The mountains are larger than I ever thought; much larger. The rivers are much more rapid and youthful than I thought; much more so. And the Inca ruins are much more monumental and mystifying than I thought; yes, much more. Passing towns, smelling the local smells of firewood burning and fresh Andean air, and absorbing with amazement the constantly unrolling landscapes, this day was a new day to me in all the power of the word ¨new¨.

Seeing the llamas, alpacas and vicuñas up close made me all the more fall in love with these special animals. The vicuña with its slender neck and legs, streamlined body and child-like face, was an embodiment of wildness, beauty, and vigor. The alpacas swept the ground with their long ¨dreads¨; incredible creatures. The llamas were much taller than I had ever thought. Their harmonious and muscular bodies were clearly suitable for carrying burden for the Peruvian people, both present and past.


Ollantaytambo impressed beyond words. This Inca stronghold and its adjacent town, conserving the most intact Inca urban layout was a marvel. The stronghold dominated gargantuan scenery. Three mighty valleys joined together at the place, and powerful winds swept air from distant mountains, mightily beating upon the Inca walls. The strategic placing of Ollantaytambo can be compared to the fictious placement of Helms Deep in Lord of the Rings; such was the grandeur of this place, even greater than that of the fortress in the movie.

One other thing among a myriad of impacting sights was the night view of the Urubamba River. As we got to our hotel in Aguas Calientes, I went into one of the rooms for Andres had told me to see something. Approaching the window I felt the immense vibrating and roar of something impressive. Indeed, in the darkness right below the hotel window, the wild and rushing Urubamba river roared, sweeping its waters over giant boulders, having carved itself over eons a memorable place among towering stone walls of mountains. Unforgettable.

-Konrad

Astronomy in the Inca world

As I am typing this on the computer, the lights in the hotel are turned off. I reflect on the day that we have all had and am amazed at the cosmological and astronomical minds of the Inca. At Saqsayhuaman, we were able to see how the Inca viewed the stars and the galaxies using many water mirrors shaped in circles that would be aimed towards a certain star. It was a special experience for me to go to the planetarium because I am in an Astronomy class this semester back at Rollins and in the beginning of the class we talked about ancient archeoastronomy. It is interesting to note that the Incas thought that the eclipses and comets were signs from gods. Astronomy was very important to the Inca way of life for agriculture and to make a calendar. The Incas believed in two kinds of formations. The stellar or star formations and the dark clouds. The dark clouds constellations are animate forms while the stellar constellation represent inanimate architectural and geometric forms. The dark cloud constellations predicted the beginning of the raining season which is used to grow crops like maiz or corn. Scorpio is another important predictor of rain when it stands in the zenith in November. There are many important animals in the Inca world according to astronomy including the celestial serpent, the toad, the tinamou, llama, baby llama and the fox. The animals told if it was going to be dry or rainy and the beginning of planting season. The planetarium was the first I have ever been to and I enjoyed seeing the different telescopes and looking at the different constellations and stars. It is amazing to learn about the history of astronomy and the different models of the world. The geocentric which was an earth centered solar system and a heliocentric model which centers around a sun centered universe.

It was great to see telescopes up close because the closest I have been to one is on the screen. I wish I knew more about the telescopes we saw whether they were refractor like Galileo's or reflector like Newton. Tycho Barhe was the first to really see the stars with the naked eye. My favorite part of the day was going to Sexy Woman and the planetarium. I am not looking forward to being on the bus all day tomorrow but I can't wait until Machu Picchu.

-Kelly

Mystified by the people of the Tahuantinsuyo...

Once again, it is late, and I am rambling. Lately I have not felt much effects of altitude, but that nonetheless does not change this monologue of mine into something that is not rambling. I am mystified and in awe of the past peoples of the Tahuantinsuyo empire, the Inka. Having visited the remains of the still splendid Quri Kancha, my admiration for the Inka grew exponentially. Their understanding and interest in cosmology bewildered and fascinated me. The temple of thunder, of the moon, and of the rainbow in their partial grandeur emanated an aura of power and demanded respect.

From, the Quri kancha, the place of origin of the ceques (lines) we headed to visit the few remaining huacas (sacred places), laying on the periphery of Qosqo. Here my marvel of the masonry of the Inka grew with every sight and step. I was mesmerized by the way these people carved solid giant stones, with a grace and subtlety that made them so special to my eyes. Every huaca, I soon found out, had its many cosmological orientations and significance. The Incas were obsessed with carving stone whether great or small, finding ideological and cosmological significance in prominent landscape features, and associating and aligning them with celestial bodies. These people were way over my head, and I look forward to the next years when new things are discovered and explained regarding these sights and new archaeological theories are put forward as to the significance of these sacred places and the places within them.


Saqsaywaman. Yes, it is the place were fabled Inca masonry is at its most gargantuan and mind-boggling apogee. How about standing in front of a megalith that is 9 meters high, weighs from 120 to 200 tonnes and is deliciously and impeccably fit with its surrounding stones, in such a way that barely the tip of a knife can fit in the joint. More than that, not only is this structure impressive as it is, but only around 20-30% of the original complex survives to this day. To top this off, the mammoth stones lean slightly inward, and are fitted together and interlocked, out of sight, in such a manner that they are earthquake resistant, and their perfect state (outside of human destruction) is a testimony to this. How these people chiseled to perfection and maneuvered such immense objects mystifies me, and certainly will continue to mystify random bypasses for the years to come.

On the top of the complex, that possibly had a ceremonial and/or defensive purpose there are three concentric stone rings. Recent studies point toward the possibility that this was a great astronomical observatory, where the knowledgeable Incas would star-gaze, and forecast climatic phenomena, set important ceremonial dates, and further their knowledge, understanding and reverence for the universe and its celestial bodies. Although it was cold, and my jacket was proving incapable of halting the chilling effects of the growing gusts of wind, I would have gladly roamed around , and further marveled at this incredible, to say the least, Inca complex.

-Konrad

Teetering on the brink of the precipice...or at least sort of

So last time I was rambling on the very first day, that seemed an eternity. I forgot to mention one of the highlights of that day: the gastronomy. I had only recently found out that Peru, or more accurately Lima was the American capital of gastronomy, and I must admit that I feel ashamed of my ignorance of this fact. The food we ate at El Bolivariano restaurant in Lima, was my first impression of the DIVINE cuisine of this country. There were countless dishes, some of which I recall to be papas a la huancaina, lomo saltado, causa, anticuchos, and others that left my taste buds in a state of flavorful exhilaration. That same day for the first time I had Alpaca steak, and I must say that after previously having seen one cross the street guided by a colorfully clad Peruvian girl, I felt rather strange, but my curiosity and appetite prevailed.

The humdrum sound of water trickling down roof tiles, and the tap-tap of droplets of Andean rain, make the warm languor of drowsiness overpowering, but I must ramble on. Today was a day that we teetered on the brink of a, or I should say many a, precipice in our Hyundai omnibus. Having left the town of Qosqo early in the morning we headed on a meandering dirt road towards a destination that proved elusive, and well, as most destinations are, it proved distant. But this distance made it in my humble opinion ever so worth it. These weren't touristic roads, we were entering a land that seemed to have been frozen in time.


The scenery that unfolded before our eyes was beheld by all with great admiration. The rolling hills, jagged green mountains, and looming white in the distance, the majestic sentinel peaks. Mountainsides were creatively transformed into efficient terraced farmlands. Women, donning colorful textiles, with children sticking out their curious heads from packs, skillfully directed mixed grazing herds of bovines, alpacas and sheep. Houses, made of mud brick, with brown tiled roofs, occasionally graced the landscape on hillsides and in valleys. One of the most spectacular things about this landscape was the grass. Yes, it was everywhere, on curb sides, growing by streams, taking over old walls, and on mountains, valleys and well, pretty much everything. It was so lusciously green and looked like a perfect carpet, for it grew in such a uniform manner that it seemed freshly mowed. What a treat this grass must be to livestock!



We were headed towards Pacaritambo, the Inca mythical place of origin. On our way we saw the mountain named Tambo Toco, where the four brothers and four sisters, of whom one was later to be called Manco Capac emerged from one of three windows. We then saw one of the sacred apus know as Huanacauri where one of the brothers Ayar, Ayar Uchu ascended into the sky as a condor and then upon his return turned into the mountain. Finally as the day drew to a close and we were still far from Qosqo, we ascended up the Mauqallaqta mountain to the site bearing the same name. Some other Inca myths say that this was the birthplace of Manco Capac. The site was grand, with its trapezoidal doors still standing, and a central plaza. The most fascinating thing about Mauqallaqta was that there were archaeological contexts remaining in situ. In the reconstructed Inca houses, shallow unfired clay bowls rested. These were most probably used to hold the Inca arívalos, that contained chicha. Some of these basins were singed, indicating the cooking of the beverage. Scattered all around were pot sherds, the remains of the Inca arívalos. This was my first Inca site, and it left a memorable imprint.

-Konrad

What an adventure!

Today was challenging because we had to hike up a mountain, Mount Maukallaqta. The most interesting part of the trip was seeing the kind of living situations in Cuzco when we were driving to Mount Maukallaqta. It was a very mind opening experience to see the poverty of a country affect people of all ages. There were many children on our way to the mountain that did not have any clothes and were forced into child labor in order to help feed their families. One boy in particularly was not wearing a shirt, had torn clothes and was selling chiclet. We also saw a lot of young children, ages 4 or 5 years old, following behind their mother in order to help them with a task. There were also a lot of babies on their mother's backs who had to come along while their mom begged or tried to sell a textile, usually a hat, or mittens. We also saw many children of various ages begging and selling products in order to help feed their families. The picture above is one of a young girl who was ecstatic after been given one candy bar by one member of our group, she continued to lick the wrapper even though there was nothing left. It was sad to see the poverty and the lives of the children on the streets. The houses in Paruro are very different from the houses we have in Orlando. The houses are made out of brick or stone and then put together with adobe mud. In many places there is no running water and many of the adobe houses are right next to each other. We saw many people hang their clothes out to dry because they have no running water they of course have no washing machine, or dishwasher. I felt spoiled and fortunate driving by the houses in Paruro. I feel grateful for what I have been given.

The climb of the mountain was exhausting and I was glad when we finally go to the top and were able to see the beautiful view. We also visited the mountain of the myth of the four sisters and four brothers called Tampoco where we learned the story that the last brother was the only brother to make it to Cuzco with his other brothers' three wives.


We also saw numerous amount of bikers and walkers. It is amazing how far and how tough a terrain the people are working on. Even though the Peruvians are acclimatized to the altitude, it seems like it has to be hard to carry tools, children, food, or handicrafts a long distance. I feel fortunate that I did not have to work when I was a child. We were scheduled to go to the Planetarium today but instead we are going tomorrow. The trip to the mountain was longer than we originally planned so we were all exhausted afterward. I am excited to see the city of Cuzco tomorrow and more sites along the way.

-Kelly

The Andes beckon, and they do so very well...

The breaths are long and tedious, not as dramatic as those that I had imagined at Everest Base Camp or at Camp I on Aconcagua , but it's true, at these Andean altitudes when facing a computer you can only ramble for your mind is askew. Even more so if this is your first time, and first day in this enchanted land, you find every step, every sight, every person immensely interesting.

Well, this is the situation in which I found myself as I was walking
through the exposition rooms, the archaeological riches of Peru mesmerizing me in every display. I have this thing for wood recovered in archaeological contexts, and at the museum there was a vast amount of wooden artifacts from Inca and pre-Inca times. I was fascinated by the Moche scepter, as it was labeled, it was an object resembling a narrow oar, with a figure of a man on the head of the shaft. The array of wooden objects that have been recovered in Peru is splendid, and thanks to the dry environment, especially on the coast, random bypassers like me can marvel at the craftsmanship of these past indigenous peoples.

I cannot even express what I felt inside of me upon seeing the tantalizing metalwork on display at the museum. Yes, my eyes voraciously consumed every inch of the golden mortuary Inca mask, or the tiny but powerfully symbolic Inca llama effigy, or the silver and gold Inca breastplates. One thing that impacted me, was standing in a life-size reconstruction of an Inca structure filled on both sides, up to my chest, in silver and golden Inca artifacts -aribalos, llamas, alpacas, figurines, and corn cobs - the treasures of the Tahuantinsuyu empire amassed by the greedy Francisco Pizarro as a ransom for the Inca Atahualpa.

The Andes beckoned, and they did so very well. Jutting out of a sea of clouds, snow capped, and jagged peaks, they impaled the Andean sky. At times they rolled more smoothly, green and cris-cut with the legendary terraced fields, masterfully built and adapted to all parts of the hillsides. It was in such a diverse and dramatic landscape that I first spotted Qosqo, with its sloping brown tile roofs, as our pilot banked in one of the most dramatic landings I have ever experienced - 180 degrees in a span of few kilometers surrounded by mountains.

The architecture was charming, and above all founded on ancient structures, those of the Inca. From the bus I hastily spotted the Quri Kancha, and many other remnants of masterfull Inca masonry. I must admit that this day was one of my longest, and when I finally fell asleep, breathing at irregular intervals, only then did the full spectrum of my day's activities begin to seep into my cranium.

-Konrad

Welcome back to Lima!

This time I did not miss the flight! This is my second time at Lima airport becuase the first time I was stuck here for SEVEN HOURS because I missed the flight to Buenos Aires last spring break. It has been a great adventure. Unfortunately, on the way to Lima we had an hour and a half delay and did not get into Lima into late at night, then the fabulous customs, and drive to the hotel. Lima was great we went to the National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology and History where we saw a lot of pottery from the Moche, Nasca, Huari, Wari, and Inca. We also saw many things from the Chavin cult/religion and a quipo which was used for record keeping by the Incas by tying knos in colored string. For lunch we went to the restaurant El Bolivanano where we all ate Creole food or a mixture of Spanish and Native food. Then we headed for the Lima airport and were off to Cuzco. Fortunately, the majority of us have not gotten sick from the altitude at about 300 Meters above sea level. When we were on the plane we were able to see the ANDES MOUNTAINS with snow on them and when we stepped off the plane we saw the beautiful mountains and interesting city of Cuzco. BUT we all were tired and took naps or walked around Cuzco. Tonight we went to a very nice restaurant called Cicciolina where they had guinea pig, ceviche, octopus and many other kinds of food. I can not wait to see what we are doing tomorrow. I already have my hiking boots ready.

-Kelly